Bahia Tenacatita

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After reading and hearing about a 2.5 mile water-trail through the mangroves in Bahia Tenacatita in our Cruising Guide we could not wait to go. Especially since there were supposed to be excellent snorkeling and great tacos at the end. We first tried tackling the trail near low water but soon found that we would need a machete or saw to make it through. So we waited a couple of days until high tide was at a more decent hour of the day and tried again - wood chopping tools at the ready.

The first part of the trail is wide open, teeming with fish and birds. About 1.5 miles along it starts to narrow and we had to navigate sharp branches attacking from above and below. Since our dinghy only has two air-chambers we were very mindful not to puncture it. We had already encountered one - albeit small - crocodile.

We chopped a couple of large branches and got a few new scratches but finally made it to the lagoon at the end of the trail where we were expecting to see a small dock and palapa as well as a trail leading to the beach. What we found is some abandoned buildings, a dock that was falling apart and a fence blocking acces to the beach. Since we were up against the clock with a falling tide, we had to either find a way to the beach so we could dinghy back to the boat anchored in the next bay, or hightail it back trough the mangrove trail before it became impassable at low tide. 

We decided to take a closer look at an opening in the mangroves shortly before the lagoon and found excellent access to the beach. Mike pulled the dinghy through the mangroves, over a small hill and onto a beach (we love our dinghy wheels!) He launched the dinghy to drive it closer to what appeared to be the center of town while I walked along the beach. 

After a little while I noticed a man in uniform coming towards me. Since all men of law have been nothing but courteous I kept walking unafraid. He yelled Hola and waved at me, so I stopped and smiled and said Hello. He started talking in fast spanish and I had to explain that I didn't understand a word. So he called his partner on the radio who drove over in their pick-up. Unfortunately he didn't speak much english either but after a lot of pointing and talking and my looking baffled I started to get their drift. Apparently we had trespassed and they were not very happy about it. I apologized and said we would not return via the mangrove trail. Then he noticed the camera in my hand and asked if I had taken any photos and wanted to see them. Instead I said we would leave right now and hailed Mike to pick me up.  Luckily they just let me go as ran through the surf and jumped into the dinghy.

Apparently there has been a serious land dispute in Tenacatita and the land was seized in an armed takeover back in August of 2010. You can read more here...

Caleta Partida

The Caleta Partida anchorage between Isla Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida has to be one of our favorites. The snorkeling is great, there are sea caves to explore, and white sand beaches and private coves to paddle to. We already spent some time here in May and went to the sea caves. This time we were a bit in a hurry, because we are on our way back down to Puerto Vallarta to spend the summer, but we took a day off for July 4th.

This was my first 4th spent outside of the US since coming to the country in 1988. Without fireworks it didn't really feel like Independence Day but we played a few patriotic songs on the stereo to celebrate. I became a citizen of our fair country in 1992 and I'm still proud to be an American (in Mexico)!

My parents and me in 1992 after becoming US citizens

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Mike snorkeling

Sea Lion

Isla Coronados

After a week on Isla Carmen we were pleased to find out that the anchorage on Isla Coronada had a much better breeze and the nighttime temperature inside the boat was in the low 80's - making sleep much more comfortable.

We had been warned about bees here but the first few days were peaceful... until the bees found our boat! Our swimstep collects puddles of fresh water when we rinse after swimming and the bees were thirsty. Luckily they were not agressive and no one (on our boat) was stung.

The beaches are beautiful white sand and the shallows perfect for wading. While I was standing knee deep in the water talking with Kyra and Rick from sv Nyon I felt something slimy pass by my leg. I shrieked and looked down to see a huge eel. After we all ran back to the safety of shore Mike started splashing around and the slimy creature swam right up to him.

Thanks to s/v Nyon for having a camera at the ready!

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This is the life! Photo by sv Nyon

Dolphins in the anchorage

Turtle in the anchorage

Playing Farkle on the beach with sv Nyon, sv Javier, sv Lion's Paw, sv Eagle, and sv Time Piece 

Heading home

Moving on to the next anchorage in a flat calm Sea of Cortez

Isla Carmen

Last week I learned that our SUP (stand up paddle board) is great for meeting people and making new friends! I paddled over to sv Nyon for a little chat and half an hour later we had the entire anchorage in the water surrounding the SUP Board Bar. sv Eagle was kind enough to get the party started by bringing cups, pineapple juice and RUM! The water was so warm that we stayed in until after dark and never got cold - I'm guessing the rum helped.

SUP-Board-Bar. Photo by sv Eagle

Puerto Ballandra, Isla Carmen

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Great snorkeling

Beautiful water color

Pineapple Rum Cake (Easy Recipe here)

View from the top of the mast of Camille

Meet Cesar

ENSENADA BLANCA - This is Cesar. He runs the palapa bar on the beach of Ensenada Blanca.



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There is no written menu and only three meal choices: Fish Tacos, Ceviche, or Clams. When you order the clams you better have some time to sit back and enjoy a cerveza because after bringing your drinks Cesar will don his fins and snorkel and dive into the ocean to dig them up. Talk about fresh!



Getting ready to get some clams



After about 20-30 minutes he comes back with pockets full of clams



Fresh chocolate clams (spanish: almeja chocolata) from 4-8 feet of depth


Cesar gets the knife just between the shells to up open the clam



Ready



Whack



My picture taking must have made him nervous because he sliced his finger while opening clams



Chocolate clams inside



Rinsing and scooping the clams out of their shells



Chopping clams 



Cesar then sautés the clams in lard (!) and garlic



And then he spoons the cooked clams back into their shells for presentation



Yum!



Enjoying clams with some cruising buddies

Bahia Aqua Verde

When looking at Bahia Aqua Verde from the water you would guess that there is not much of a town there. And you would be right. The goats seem to outnumber the people and the local dogs make sure the goats aren't harassed by curious gringos.

Most front yards are adorned with mattresses on wooden frames. Right near the outdoor kitchens. We were told that it is still relatively cool this time of year, though we really can't imagine it getting much hotter! Maybe we will be sleeping outside soon as well.

We have been keeping cool swimming, snorkeling and SUPing.

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Main Street

Typical home (with bed to the left)

Garbage pickup for the visiting boats